Cleansing oils can be a very natural way to cleanse, nourish, and pamper your skin; but many of the cleansing oils on the market are full of cheap filler oils and are WAY over priced for the ingredients they contain. I maybe a PJ, but I’m also a budget beauty lover so dropping $28 for 7oz of cleansing oil just wasn’t on my list of things to do. Especially if the first two ingredients are mineral oil and safflower oil! So I decided to put this Chemistry degree to use and reverse engineer myself a cleansing oil that meets MY specific skincare needs.
The way a cleansing oil works is based on the common principle of “like attracts like”. The oil in the skin attaches to the oil in the cleanser, and then you rinse both of them off, resulting in gentle yet effective deep-pore cleansing. Oil cleansers also bind to makeup and other daily dirt and grime — and flush that away completely, too. Your skin is left clean, but not parched. I wanted a cleansing oil that will remove makeup, rinses clean, and doesn’t aggravate my oily acne prone skin. It’s interesting because as many of you know, when you are oily, adding more oil to your face seems strange and foreign. However, using an cleansing oil to remove dirt and makeup is exactly what many oily people do. It prevents over stripping your skin and over time helps regulate the oil production of the skin and your skin produce LESS oil long term.
After looking at the ingredients of a few popular cleansing oils on the market, it was quite easy to see that most of them contained 4-5 main ingredients…oils, an emulsifier, various extracts, fragrance (some) and preservatives (most). I decided that my cleansing oil would not contain preservatives, mainly because oils (as long as no water is introduced) do not NEED preservatives. I decided to skip the preservatives and prevent introduction of water by putting the finished product in a pump bottle. Originally I decided to skip any fragrances because I’m not scent sensitive, but later I decided to add in tea tree oil which adds a bit of fragrance as well as medicinal properties to the final mix. So that leaves the bulk of my cleansing oil mix as the actual oils and an emulsifier.
I did a lot of research into which natural oils were good for acne or oily skin. I determined that I wanted my mix to contain castor oil, jojoba oil, hemp oil, and neem oil. I am including castor oil because it has potent anti-inflammatory properties, but is also healing and cleansing to the skin. Jojoba oil because it is most similar to the oils that the skin naturally produces. Hemp oil has anti-inflammatory properties, helps clean and detoxify your skin, and because of its rich in omega 3, 6, and 9 oils it also evens out your skin tone. Finally neem oil is ideal for acne-prone skin because it can help to soothe irritation and inflammation, clear up pimples and remove bacteria from the surface of the skin that can cause more break-outs.
Now that I knew which oils I wanted to use, the last step was the emulsifier and then figuring out the ratios of oils for the mixture. I knew I needed an emulsifier that when water was added to the cleansing oil on my face, it would completely emulsify the oils with the water and ensure removal of all traces of the oils from my face. I decided to use polysorbate 80 because it works better with heavier oils such as castor and neem. If you are unable to find polysorbate 80, polysorabate 20 would work as well, but my suggestion would be to increase the amount in your final mix. As for the ratio of the final mix, at least 20% (1/5) needs to be the emulsifier, the rest oils. So to keep the math simple, I make my cleansing oil in 10 oz batches; of which at least 2 oz is emulsifier. I decided that I wanted at least 1/2 my mix to be castor oil, and 1/5 of it neem. The rest is divided between the jojoba and hemp oil.
So here is the final cleansing oil mix
- 4oz castor oil
- 2oz neem oil
- 1oz hemp oil
- 1oz jojoba oil
- 2oz polysorbate 80 (if you can only find polysorbate 20, increase to 3oz)
- Tea Tree Oil (about 60 drops)
Directions: Measure everything with a measuring cup, mix to incorporate all ingredients, and pour into a pump bottle. To use, take 2-3 pumps to apply to DRY skin (The neem oil may tend to settle out, so shake well before use). Massage well to loosen and dissolve makeup, dirt, and grime. Rinse with water and voila. Clean makeup free skin that’s not tight!
I appreciate your feedback and comments, so if you decide to try this DIY project, please let me know your thoughts and results in the comment section below!Previous Post: Review: The Pomade Shop’s Blaizon’s Café Au Natural Coffee Conditioner
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